Waves and Wave Dynamics

Explore the fundamentals of waves and wave dynamics in this comprehensive lecture. Dive into wave generation, internal waves, and various types of wave movements including progressive, longitudinal, and transverse waves. Learn essential wave terminology and orbital characteristics, understanding concepts like circular orbital motion and wave speed in different water depths. Examine wind-generated wave development, factors affecting wave energy, and the use of satellite technology for wave height measurements. Discover the Beaufort Wind Scale, maximum wave heights, and the concept of a fully developed sea. Investigate wave phenomena such as swells, wave interference patterns, and rogue waves. Study waves in the surf zone, different types of breakers, and the physics behind surfing. Analyze wave refraction, standing waves, and the unique characteristics of tsunamis, including their generation, propagation, and destructive potential. Gain insights into historical tsunami events and their impact on coastal regions.

Chapter 8 Lecture
Wave Generation
Internal Waves
Wave Movement
Progressive Waves
Longitudinal Waves
Transverse Waves
Wave Terminology • Crest
Orbital Wave Characteristics
Circular Orbital Motion
Speed of Deep Water Waves
Shallow-Water Waves
Wind-Generated Wave Development
Factors Affecting Wave Energy
TOPEX/Poseidon satellite Wave Heights
Beaufort Wind Scale
Maximum Wave Height
Wave Damage
Fully Developed Sea
Swells
Wave Train Movement
Wave Interference Patterns
Rogue Waves
Waves in Surf Zone
Waves Approaching Shore
Three Types of Breakers
Spilling Breakers
Plunging Breakers
Surfing
Wave Refraction
Standing Waves
Tsunami Characteristics
Tsunami vs. Wind-Generated Waves
Tsunami Generation and Propagation
Tsunami Destruction
Historical Tsunami